Thinking of doing the job yourself? Replacing an existing toilet is much easier than installing a new one; the pipes are already in position. If you are installing a new toilet rather than replacing one, however, please consider hiring a professional, for it is a much more complex endeavor. That being said...let's get started!
The Anatomy of a Toilet
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Before you actually get started, lay some old towels nearby on the floor to place the old toilet on. This is to avoid cracking the flooring tile when the toilet slips out of your hands. And this may sound a little silly, but make sure the new toilet will actually fit where the old toilet is. Some of the newer models are shaped just differently enough that it may not be able to go exactly where you want it.
Drain Water
 | Shut off the water supply to the toilet, and flush the toilet several times. This will remove the water from the tank and most of the water from the bowl. You will want to scoop out the remaining bowl water so that it doesn't make a mess when you are carrying it out of your house. |
Disconnect Toilet
 | Unscrew the nuts that attach the toilet to the water supply line. Remove the caps that cover the bolts at the base of the toilet and then remove the nuts under the caps. |
Break Seal
 | Using a utility knife, gently cut between the toilet and floor. Remove the toilet by carefully rocking it back and forth until it comes loose, (remember, there is a little water in there!) and place it on the old towels you set up earlier. Don't drop it! Then, using a putty knife, remove the gross wax gasket that's been under there for years and throw it away. Place a rag or wad of paper towels in the drain pipe, just in case. |
Ready for the New Toilet!
 | There are several different types of wax rings to choose from, however in most situations, wax gaskets without plastic inserts should do the job just fine. Insert a new, not yet gross, wax gasket onto the new toilet bowl, with the tapered side facing away from the bowl. As you do this, make sure the toilet flange is in good condition and not corroded. The flange ensures a tight connection between the waste pipe and the toilet, so now would be a good time to update that if needed. |
Remove the rag from the drainpipe. Apply a seal of caulk around the base of the toilet and lower toilet into position, pressing down as you do so. Gently tighten the washers and nuts onto the bolts. Making them too tight will crack the porcelain, so be careful here.
Ensure that the toilet is now level on the floor. We don't need to get into what might happen if you install a crooked toilet...
Fill the cap covers with plumber's putty and place over the bolts.
Ensure that the toilet is now level on the floor. We don't need to get into what might happen if you install a crooked toilet...
Fill the cap covers with plumber's putty and place over the bolts.
 | To set the new tank, insert the tank bolts through the base of the tank. Slowly lower the tank into position. Secure the nuts and washers to attach the tank to the bowl. Again, double-check the tank is level. Next, lower the tank lid onto the tank. |
Connect the supply line between the shut-off valve and the fill valve. To finish connecting, tighten the compression nut. Then you can open the shut-off valve.
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Apply caulk
 | Run a bead of caulk around the base of the toilet to seal the joint between the toilet and the floor. An easy way to smooth out the caulk is to wet your finger and run it along the bead to provide a clean finish. And that's it, you're done! |
Enjoy! |  |
If you get overwhelmed, or the project is not what you thought it would be, pop on over to www.CameronsPHC.com, or call 610-932-2416 for some professional advice!
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